Hello lemgineers!

I’m working on designing a claw that can be operated underwater. The plan is to use a linear actuator in a waterproof housing. The main issue is allowing the shaft to slide through without causing a leak. What’s the best way to go about this?

  • CanadaPlus@lemmy.sdf.org
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    3 months ago

    I’m late to the party, but I’m not sure why nobody mentioned the keyword “stuffing box”. That’s what this exact part is called in maritime operations, and as the name suggests it was traditionally a box packed with something to slow down the movement of water. You still have to bail on the other end, though, because it’s not perfect.

    However, since it’s just a linear actuator it’d be simpler to go with an accordion-type covering. At shallow depths you could use a normal plastic one, if it needs to go deep metal ones exist. That’s much simpler to deal with than an actual sliding bearing.

    • Ynrielle@sh.itjust.worksOP
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      2 months ago

      Sorry I’m just now seeing this, and late to the party is just fine 😍 I’m looking at redesigning it this year anyways!

      I’m not sure if this is similar to what you meant by an accordion covering, but what we did was design a mold that we 3D printed and poured silicone into to create a seal/cover that will stretch as the piston of the linear actuator slides in and out.

      • CanadaPlus@lemmy.sdf.org
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        2 months ago

        I meant with the pleats, similar to what you see on an actual accordion, or in a bendy straw. It’s how they did the joints on the Apollo space suits, for a vaguely similar application. The shape is sometimes called “bellows”, but that’s pretty confusing when it also refers to an air blowing technology that may or may not involve a diaphragm of any kind.

        If you got enough range of movement with just a straight elastomer cylinder, that works, but if the pressure is pretty modest a variety of stretchy ducts made for HVAC or other home purposes are sold. I have some for draining rainwater, but they seem to break in stiff wind, so YMMV. You could also mold your own again.

  • lemmefixdat4u@lemmy.world
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    6 months ago

    If the travel distance of the rod is fairly limited, you can use a corrugated boot.

    Otherwise, maybe a gland seal with positive air pressure on the dry side?

  • Longpork3@lemmy.nz
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    6 months ago

    If you have an air line to the surface, then running the enclosure at positive pressure to negate the force of water pressure at depth might be a starting point.

    I would also reconsider whether a linear actuator is the right approach. A hydraulic piston external to the housing where your motor resides reduces the complexity of any waterproofing, and might be a better approach if you’re dealing with significant depths/pressures.