My Razer Naga Pro died and I’m absolutely not buying another one for what it costs. But I also can’t seem to find a replacement with the same sort of layout this one had. I’ll link a picture, but I’m essentially looking for a mouse that has a lot of side buttons but still has a place for me to rest my thumb without having to worry about accidentally pressing buttons. I don’t really like 12 button MMO style mice for this reason, as I constantly feel like I’m going to accidentally press a button. Any suggestions are appreciated.

Edit: I also want to note that I’m right handed, and I hate the feel of ambidextrous mice. I like being able to lay my hand on the mouse and know exactly where my fingers are supposed to go.

  • Mr PoopyButthole@lemm.ee
    link
    fedilink
    English
    arrow-up
    34
    arrow-down
    1
    ·
    9 months ago

    The Logitech G604 has been my champion

    https://support.logi.com/hc/en-us/articles/360036534033-Getting-Started-G604

    It’s immediate predecessor definitely felt more rugged, in terms of build quality, but it’s still the only mouse I can use.

    At first the price will probably be listed high, but they go on sale all the time. I gotten mine and its previous model somewhere between $40-$60.

    https://www.microcenter.com/product/615496/logitech-g-g604-lightspeed-wireless-gaming-mouse

    • Fester@lemm.ee
      link
      fedilink
      English
      arrow-up
      23
      ·
      edit-2
      9 months ago

      I loved my G604, but after a year (days after warranty expired ofc) it suffered from the common Omron switch corrosion “double click” issue. In practice, it dropped button-holds and clicked again. Imagine dragging a window, it drops it, and randomly clicks somewhere else on screen, but all while you’re holding the button down.

      It was a great one year though. That was probably my last Logitech product, though many other brands use those switches too. AFAIK the problem mainly affected wireless mice. From what I’ve read, the switches require a certain voltage to prevent corrosion, but when Logitech and other brands improperly use them in wireless mice, the battery-saving features don’t meet the power requirement.

      Maybe they’ve since fixed it, but I personally wouldn’t recommend this mouse unless you’re comfortable opening it up and cleaning the contacts or replacing the switches someday - or don’t mind keeping a 2nd one handy.

      • Narauko@lemmy.world
        link
        fedilink
        arrow-up
        10
        arrow-down
        1
        ·
        9 months ago

        Yeah, I got tired of soldering new switches on my Logitech mice. It’s the only reason I ended up with a Razer for my latest mouse, optical switches that physically cannot get double click failure. Logi isn’t the only one with the double click failures, Razer traditional switch mice fail for me even faster than logi.

      • FartsWithAnAccent@kbin.social
        link
        fedilink
        arrow-up
        2
        ·
        edit-2
        9 months ago

        FWIW I’ve been using Logitech mice for decades at home and at work: Overall, problems seem to be pretty rare and Logitech usually fixes stuff if you contact their support, I’ve even had them replace stuff that was out of warranty. My current daily drivers are an MX Master, MX Verticle, and MX Anywhere. Not exactly gaming mice but they’ve been working great for years. Might be different swtiches?

      • rem26_art@kbin.social
        link
        fedilink
        arrow-up
        1
        ·
        9 months ago

        I have a G502 Hero that had the bad Omron switches that would give double clicks. I ended up swapping them out for some Kailh switches, but its def only a fix you can do if you’re comfortable with a soldering iron.

        I would hope this defect would be solved by now, cuz I got this mouse in around 2018

    • candyman337@sh.itjust.works
      link
      fedilink
      arrow-up
      13
      ·
      9 months ago

      I like it but I do get odd double clicks here and there, that can be very annoying, and it’s older brother the g602 had the same issue. However the build quality of the g602 was better, the rubber on the g604 has degraded much quicker, and I had to reglue some of the top plastic on the left side of the mouse.

      Logitech’s quality is going down while their prices stay the same/rise

      I do like the g604 for the most part but I really would recommend another brand if possible.

      • Alto@kbin.social
        link
        fedilink
        arrow-up
        3
        ·
        9 months ago

        Not only is the quality going down hill, but the customer service is absolute shit now. Used to be you’d get a new mouse, no questions asked, because the double clicking thing is/was a known issue. When I had to replace my g703 a couple years back, the hoops they made me jump through to prove that it was actually broken was ridiculous. I know of several people who have had similar experiences. Took over 2 weeks to get them to send me a new one.

      • Jaysyn@kbin.social
        link
        fedilink
        arrow-up
        3
        ·
        9 months ago

        I’ve basically had to quit buying Logitech mice due their build / switch quality falling thru the floor over the past 5 years.

        I’ve gone thru 5 g300s mice in the last 5 years or so. (I like the button layout)

      • Aido@lemmy.world
        link
        fedilink
        arrow-up
        3
        ·
        edit-2
        9 months ago

        It’s not the most difficult repair to swap the Moise buttons out, they’re standard parts. You need to know your way around a soldering iron though.

        Edit: You do have to buy replacement skates though

    • AstridWipenaugh@lemmy.world
      link
      fedilink
      arrow-up
      5
      ·
      edit-2
      9 months ago

      I’ve had my 502 at home for something like 6 years IIRC. Immediately bought one for work. Great mice, no issues.

  • ddonuts4@lemmy.world
    link
    fedilink
    arrow-up
    19
    ·
    edit-2
    9 months ago

    Steel series Rival 500. Highly recommended. I got it specifically because I wanted as many buttons as possible but in an actually ergonomic to press layout vs trying to feel out the numbers in a numpad layout. https://steelseries.com/gaming-mice/rival-500

    You can rest your thumb on a spot in the middle that looks like a button but isn’t and you can also lock out the 2 bottom buttons below your thumb with a physical switch if they get in the way

  • ThirdWorldOrder@lemm.ee
    link
    fedilink
    arrow-up
    7
    ·
    edit-2
    9 months ago

    Naga is my go to. I tried all kinds of different mice to find something similar and there just wasn’t anything that I found which compares. I just use the basic version and not the ultimate or whatever it is… doesn’t seem necessary.

    Even top comments suggestion I have, sitting in my drawer. The Logitech is nice but just not as comfortable.

  • echutaa@programming.dev
    link
    fedilink
    arrow-up
    6
    ·
    9 months ago

    After my naga died I went for the swiftpoint z because my hands are too big to use half the buttons on most other mmo mice. It’s way too expensive but easily the best mouse I’ve ever owned.

    • JusticeForPorygon@lemmy.worldOP
      link
      fedilink
      arrow-up
      3
      ·
      9 months ago

      I’m sorry, are those functionally analog mouse buttons?

      This thing is way out of my price range, but at the same time it looks so frickin neat! Not to mention Swiftpoint is making a Z2?

      • echutaa@programming.dev
        link
        fedilink
        arrow-up
        2
        ·
        9 months ago

        Yea I don’t know much about the second rev, but the analog buttons and internal gyro are great if you do any driving/flight sim stuff

  • Mautobu@lemmy.world
    link
    fedilink
    arrow-up
    5
    ·
    9 months ago

    I’m still using an old Corsair m95. All of the new MMO mice seen to be geared toward that ugly grid. I’ve looked at replacing it a few times, but can’t find much that really meets the mark. Some honourable mentions from me would be the EVGA x15 and the Razer Naga hex ( at least I think that’s the name).

    • Fungah@lemmy.world
      link
      fedilink
      arrow-up
      3
      arrow-down
      1
      ·
      9 months ago

      So this is… Vict tsing or something, I think they’re called?

      I had a daily driver for about a year from them which was phenomenal. It was responsive, felt great in my hand, had a pinky rest, so much better than the piece of shit g502s that was the last Logitech mouse I’ll buy, apparently the only gaming mouse they make now, and also evidently made for those with tiny, dainty hands.

      It stopped working evebtuslly though I can’t really why exactly, and the second on I bought stopped working much soone, after maybe 2 months?

      Anyway the first one I bought was well worth the $20, price of admission. The second one less so. So while there are some durability issue, the low cost of entry and performance made up for it.

  • Soggy@lemmy.world
    link
    fedilink
    arrow-up
    5
    ·
    9 months ago

    I bought a Roccat Kone XP a few months ago and I’m happy with it. I have large hands and there’s room to tuck my thumb, and the special “shift” thumb button effectively doubles the inputs without jamming a small keyboard on the side.

    Software has been more stable than Razer’s garbage too.

    • Appoxo@lemmy.dbzer0.com
      link
      fedilink
      arrow-up
      3
      ·
      9 months ago

      My Roccat is meh.
      Had both the Kone AIMO and the Kova.

      The Kova developed within 3 or 4 years mushy buttons of moderate gaming (teenager me about 2-3h daily gaming).
      The Kone plastic became shiny within 4 years and creaked. Had to put a piece of folded paper under the shell to stop it from annoying me. Also it develops gamer gunk way too quickly compared the the MX master 2s/3 I use at work for 8h daily.
      The MX 2s only had gunk on the mouse wheel and the coating was solid so far.
      The 3 has a solid mouse wheel and without the jagged edges (compared to the 2s) doesnt aqumulate gunk as easily. Instead the rubber coating is now becoming a bit sticky after ~3 years on the thumb button. Still the buttons are solid.

      Will probably switch to a logitech mouse similar to the Kone shape once I have enough from it.

      About me: I use liquid soap, have usually dry hands and don’t use moisturizer at all. My hands may get a bit sweaty during longer hours.

    • potustheplant@feddit.nl
      link
      fedilink
      arrow-up
      2
      ·
      9 months ago

      Razer’s software is only necessary to configure the mouse. It doesn’t need to be running 24/7. It’s also not “unstable” I’ve never had issues with it tbh.

      • Kushan@lemmy.world
        link
        fedilink
        English
        arrow-up
        5
        ·
        9 months ago

        I have sworn off razer products specifically because of their software. The most egregious thing is their software installation automatically popping up and blocking during a Windows installation (including certain major upgrades). I realise this isn’t something that happens often, but setting off an install, then coming back a few hours later only to find a fucking razer EULA waiting for me to click accept before it’ll carry on through the remaining 75% of the OS installation was the last straw.

        At one point they required you to sign into an account to use the software and at another point they decided to revamp their software, which meant dropping support for my keyboard but I needed it for my mouse so I was in this lovely halfway state where I could use one and not the other? It was fucked. Fuck razer.

        • potustheplant@feddit.nl
          link
          fedilink
          arrow-up
          1
          ·
          9 months ago

          Don’t know if the windows installation issue is still a thing because I haven’t formatted since I got my Razer DeathAdder v3 but their software (currently) doesn’t require sign in, doesn’t crash and you don’t need to run it at startup.

          I get that it might have been bad at some point in time but that doesn’t mean it can’t improve. I mean, it already has.

      • Soggy@lemmy.world
        link
        fedilink
        arrow-up
        1
        arrow-down
        1
        ·
        9 months ago

        Their shit crashed weekly and I couldn’t access my mouse configuration presets. Crashed less often after I downloaded Razer’s software hub as well but it meant another program at launch, another pointless account to log in and track, and still didn’t work all the time.

        • potustheplant@feddit.nl
          link
          fedilink
          arrow-up
          1
          ·
          9 months ago

          I don’t know how far back you’re talking about but I’ve had literally 0 crashes. Maybe it used to be worse but it works fine now.

          Currently, you only need “razer synapse” and no, you don’t need to run it at startup. Like I already said, you only need to open it if you want to change your device configuration or update the firmware. It also doesn’t require any form of sign in.

          • Soggy@lemmy.world
            link
            fedilink
            arrow-up
            1
            ·
            9 months ago

            It was four months ago, Synapse was the program that didn’t work right, and my presets would not load until I finessed Synapse into launching. This required running Cortex. Was a Deathadder Elite.

            • potustheplant@feddit.nl
              link
              fedilink
              arrow-up
              1
              ·
              9 months ago

              Something was wrong with your install. I don’t need Synapse running at all and I’ve had this mouse since September 2023.

              • Soggy@lemmy.world
                link
                fedilink
                arrow-up
                1
                ·
                9 months ago

                Well I tried reinstalling the software and the drivers and nothing fixed it except starting Cortex before Synapse. And then the mouse started dropping clicks so I binned it and I’m done with the company for the forseeable future.

  • givesomefucks@lemmy.world
    link
    fedilink
    English
    arrow-up
    5
    arrow-down
    1
    ·
    9 months ago

    I think I got some kind of razor where the side was magnetic and had a couple options.

    The basic up/down, crazy MMO, and then one with like six buttons.

        • JusticeForPorygon@lemmy.worldOP
          link
          fedilink
          arrow-up
          5
          ·
          9 months ago

          I tested the cable on other things and it works fine. I can’t try another cable on the mouse because it’s that bullshit proprietary microusb

          • uis@lemm.ee
            link
            fedilink
            arrow-up
            1
            ·
            edit-2
            9 months ago

            Oops, I’m being stupid again. I thought about regular wired mouse. Also I’m assuming mouse is not detected by OS and there is no indication that mouse works at all.

            1. Disassemble mouse
            2. If you have multimeter check cable+socket in continuity mode. Also check soldering joint itself.
            3. After turning mouse on check voltages. On USB power pins it should be 5V. If you find any power converter check output voltage and compare with voltage of IC it powers.
            4. ???
            5. I’ve never made this far in trying to repair my mouse, usually everything became obvious at step 1.

            proprietary microusb

            How microusb can be proprietary? What happened to it?

            • JusticeForPorygon@lemmy.worldOP
              link
              fedilink
              arrow-up
              2
              ·
              9 months ago

              Razer has a special mold for the outlets of their mice so that only a micro USB cable with the matching mold (aka the one they sell) can fit it. They probably have some excuse about how it helps hold the cord in place or something but I think it’s dumb as hell. I’ll post a photo when I have a chance.

            • JusticeForPorygon@lemmy.worldOP
              link
              fedilink
              arrow-up
              1
              ·
              9 months ago

              Can you explain step 2 as you would to a six year old? This is literally my first time using a multimeter in a practical setting. I know what continuity mode is and that’s about it.

              • uis@lemm.ee
                link
                fedilink
                arrow-up
                1
                ·
                9 months ago

                English is not my native language, so my explaination would probably be shit.

                First you select continuity mode(one where shirting probes makes multimeter beep).

                Then you plug cable into disassembled mouse, start with finding where USB shielding connected to by placing(touching with) one probe on outer metal rectangle and metal body and pins of socket one at a time. It is possible for ground and shielding to be shorted, this is how you check for it.

                Then you google “usb type a pinout” and check continuity of all wires and pins. Also check for shorts between them. This is how you check wire and port.

                Checking soldering joints is simply watching at them for obvious cracks. If you can’t find any, then try plugging in mouse while pressing on soldering pads in case of tiny fracture.

    • hightrix@lemmy.world
      link
      fedilink
      arrow-up
      2
      ·
      9 months ago

      Not the OP but I’ve had multiple Nagas and they always either die or start double clicking after a few years of use. They are nice but don’t last long.

  • GregorGizeh@lemmy.zip
    link
    fedilink
    arrow-up
    3
    ·
    9 months ago

    When I last had a mmo style mouse I didn’t map most of the buttons for that very reason. Just so I could press them without worry while just putting my thumb somewhere

    • JusticeForPorygon@lemmy.worldOP
      link
      fedilink
      arrow-up
      3
      ·
      9 months ago

      I hate these kinds of mice but my mother has been using Logitech trackball mice at work for like 20 years so I know some people swear by them. Not sure how usable it would be for something like gaming though.

      • lurch (he/him)@sh.itjust.works
        link
        fedilink
        arrow-up
        3
        ·
        9 months ago

        I’m gaming with an elecom thumb trackball that has many buttons. It has pros and cons. It’s faster to move your thumb than your entire arm, but because one degree on screen is less movement on the trackball than a mouse, aiming needs more getting used to and is harder if your fingers are shaky. you can flick the ball to spin though 😆

      • Wild_Mastic@lemmy.world
        link
        fedilink
        arrow-up
        3
        ·
        edit-2
        9 months ago

        I’ve been gaming on trackballs for years (finger trackball, not thumb trackball) with no issues. It also fixed all ergonomics problems and my wrist don’t hurt anymore even after 8 hours of work.

        P.s. the logitech trackball, if it’s the one without scroll wheel, is not usable for me or gaming in general.

      • nickwitha_k (he/him)@lemmy.sdf.org
        link
        fedilink
        arrow-up
        1
        ·
        9 months ago

        I used to game with trackballs. They are very usable when you get used to them. Also very handy when you need to move you rig a lot since it doesn’t need space for a mouse pad to work.